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What Is a Bullet Bra?

A bullet bra has cone-shaped, circle-stitched cups made famous in the 1940s and 1950s. How it is built, how to wear one today, and how it should fit.

By , Fashion Writer and Designer Updated 2 min read

Dusty rose bullet bra with pointed cups on a wooden table

Key takeaways

  • A bullet bra has pointed, cone-shaped cups shaped by rings of circular stitching.
  • It was popular in the 1940s and 1950s and is worn today for vintage looks and pin-up style.
  • Most are seamed and unpadded; some modern versions add soft padding so the point holds its shape.
  • Fit the band firmly and choose your usual cup size. The point should hold its shape without collapsing.

A bullet bra, also called a cone or torpedo bra, has pointed, cone-shaped cups formed by rings of circular stitching. It was the fashionable shape of the 1940s and 1950s and is worn today mainly for vintage, retro and pin-up looks.

How a bullet bra is built

  • Circle-stitched cups: rows of stitching spiral from the point outward, which stiffens the fabric and creates the cone.
  • Seamed construction: most are made from several fabric pieces, not molded foam.
  • Firm band: usually a deeper band with two or three hooks.
  • Optional pads: some come with small inserts that sit in the tip so the point keeps its shape.

Bullet bra vs modern bras

Bullet braModern T-shirt bra
ShapePointed coneRounded
CupSeamed, stitchedMolded foam
Look under clothesVisible vintage silhouetteSmooth and natural
Best withRetro sweaters, wiggle dressesEveryday fitted tops

Our guide to molded vs seamed cups explains why seamed cups shape the bust differently.

How to fit a bullet bra

  1. Band first: firm and level, as with any bra.
  2. Cups: choose your usual cup size. Fill the base of the cone fully; the very tip may be empty.
  3. Point position: the tip should sit over your nipple, not above or to the side.
  4. Straps: adjust so the cones point forward, not down.

If the point collapses or creases, try a smaller cup or add the inserts that some styles include.

How to wear one today

  • With a fitted 1950s sweater or twinset.
  • Under a wiggle or pencil dress for a period silhouette.
  • As a visible piece under a sheer blouse for a retro look.

Shop bullet and cone bras

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Results are Amazon’s, not our picks. Check the size range, the return policy and the features above before you buy.

The longline and corset bras also have their roots in mid-century lingerie. See our guides to the corset bra and the longline bra.

Frequently asked questions

Why is it called a bullet bra?

Because the cups come to a point, like the tip of a bullet. It is also called a cone bra or torpedo bra.

Are bullet bras comfortable?

They are usually soft and unpadded, so many people find them comfortable. The pointed shape just won’t look natural under modern fitted tops.

What do you wear with a bullet bra?

Fitted 1950s-style sweaters, wiggle dresses and pin-up outfits, where the pointed silhouette is part of the look.

Can a bullet bra fill the point if I’m smaller?

Some come with removable pads (sometimes called “pillows”) that sit in the tip so it keeps its shape. Others rely on a firm, seamed cup.

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